Home » DIY » Adding OEM Fog Lights to R53 MINI

Archives

Adding OEM Fog Lights to R53 MINI

We recently posted a couple of DIY articles about foglights. One was about using the stock MINI fog light openings as brake duct openings, and the other was about adding Hella fog lights using the Alta Rally Light bar. In this post, we’ll fit a pair of stock MINI fog lights to the bumper of a car that didn’t come with them from the factory.  Like all of the other advice on this website, use at your own risk.  The processes described worked for us, your mileage may vary. No wagering. [If you would like to see how to add the OEM MINI driving lights that mount to the upper grille, check out this write-up from Pelican Parts.]
 Difficulty: 2-wrenches-150x30
Time Required: 2 Hours
Parts & Materials Needed:
  • OE style fog lights (get the Hella OE version which are less expensive than MINI) and hardware (see drawing).
  • A two light wiring kit with relay and a round switch (like this one or similar).
  • Two sockets for fog lights (61132360041)
  • Some shrink tubing and zipties (always zipties.)
  • Soldering iron and electrical spade connectors
  • Add-a-circuit and fuse.

Special Tools Needed:

  • Torx T-25 Socket
  • Wire crimping/stripping tool
  • Drill bit sized to match your switch.
Installation Instructions:
  1. Like any other electrical project, copy any stereo codes and disconnect the battery.
  2. Loosen the front lug bolts and put the car on jack stands (the front end at least).
  3. Remove the road-wheels.
  4. Remove the front bumper cover by removing the two Torx bolts on either side of the radiator, the two 8mm bolts within each wheel well, the three 10 mm bolts under the spoiler and the two screws that attach the bumper cover to the wheel well liner on the bottom.
  5. Twist out the corner marker lights and running lights. Unplug the front turn signals. Unplug the temperature sensor from the grille.
  6. The bumper cover is now free.
  7. Remove each of the fog light blanks.
  8. Working within each of the wheel wells, release the four forward screw rivets so you can get to the backside of the fog light mounts.
  9. Attach the fog lights to the support frame using the required hardware (see drawing).
  10. Starting at the grounding point inboard of each wheel well, route a ground wire back to the fog light. Secure the wire along the path from the fog light to the grounding point, and attach the wire to the grounding point.
  11. Cut the ground wire with enough slack that you can maneuver the light bulb holder in and out of the fog light.
  12. Attach the ground wire to one end of the fog light socket.
  13. Attach the relay and inline fuse to the cowl panel near the engine fuse box.
  14. Open the fuse box next to the ECU. Notice where the power lead from the battery attaches with in the rear under the 10mm nut. Attach the main power lead from the relay to this nut.
  15. Route the relay ground to the grounding point where you attached the left side fog light ground and secure the wire with zip ties.
  16. Route the fog light power leads to each light. Avoid pinching the wire or running it near anything that will run hot. If you cross potentially sharp edges, use some shrink tubing to add some reinforcement to the wire in that location. Secure the wire with zip ties to reduce movement.
  17. Once you are satisfied, cut the wire to length (leaving some slack to remove the light socket) and connect the wire to your fog light connector.
  18. Drill a small hole in the cowl near the relay and run the lead to the switch into the cowl cavity.
  19. Locate the large rubber grommet on the firewall next to the brake master cylinder. Use an awl or sharp screwdriver to punch a hole in the rubber.
  20. Attach the switch lead wire to a straightened coat hanger and it into the opening a few inches.
  21. Switch to inside of the vehicle and pull down on the knee bolster on either side of the steering column.  Pull down sharply, the panel will pivot down and then pull out.
  22. Locate where the coat hanger is coming through the grommet and start pulling the wire through.
  23. Run the wire along the backside of the knee bolster support frame all the way to the fuse panel and secure it in place with zip ties. Give yourself an extra 12 inches of wire or so, and cut it off.
  24. Look on the back side of the knee bolster and note the spot marked in the photo below to drill the hole for the switch and carefully drill the hole.
  25. On the firewall locate a 10m nut to use as a ground point. Run a ground wire from that point to the switch.
  26. Open the fuse panel and locate a 10amp fuse used for X. Use the add-a-fuse and run the wire to the switch.
  27. Connect the spade connectors to all three wires and attach to the switch (labeled “eject” because “fog” is boring).
  28. Replace the knee bolster by pressing it up and into place firmly.
  29. Reconnect the battery and then test your connections.
  30. Reconnect the battery, turn on the headlights, and test your new fog light switch.
  31. If everything is working, put the bumper cover back on and reconnect the wheel well liners and roadwheels.
  32. To aim your new fog lights (assuming your headlights are aimed correctly), park your car about 25 feet from a wall on level ground and measure the distance from the center of your fog lights to the ground.
  33. Transfer that height to the wall with masking tape and aim your fog lights so the center of the beam is 1.5 inches below your mark.  (See this reference article.)
  34. With the hood raised, you can look down past the turn signals and see the white adjuster screw from above.  You’ll need a fairly long screwdriver to reach it.

frontstructure foglightbreakout wiringkit img_3655grommetpowerdrillhere img_9554