Armed with my trusty Bentley manual and the internet, I decided to learn how to change my own brake pads. The dealer charges somewhere north of $400 for pads and labor so I thought I set out to get a higher grade pad and to do it for less money.

To start with — the pads. I decided to go with the Hawk HP Plus pads. I had read several good reviews that claim they offer increased stopping power, lower temperatures, and less dust. And they would hold up to occasional track use. There are several good pad changing guides on the internet; I suggest you read several along with the Bentley manual before you begin. The process is really quite simple (once you get past the fact that if you screw up, you aren’t stopping….) Consider upgrading to higher temperature brake fluid if you will track the car often. Disclaimer: This guide provides an overview and is not a substitute for common sense. Use at your own risk.

1. Chock your wheels and loosen the lug bolts and get the car up on jack stands on a flat, level spot with plenty of room to move around the car.
2. Remove the wheels and inspect the inside of the rims for any damage; inspect the rotor for damage and measure the thickness of the rotor (measure a number of spaces and take the average.)
3. Loosen the cap on the brake reservoir. (If you recently topped it off, remove some fluid with a turkey baster so it doesn’t overflow when you compress the caliper pistons.)
4. Remove the wire retaining clip by prying up at the bottom with a screw driver; remove the two caps and 7mm hex bolts that hold the caliper to the carrier.
5. Wiggle the caliper free of the rotor (remember to release the parking brake in the back). Don’t let the caliper dangle — support it with a box or use coat-hanger to hang it.)
6. Remove the outside pad (it may have stayed on the rotor)
7. Remove the inside pad by pulling it toward you.
8. Remove the wear sensor wire (left front, right rear). If you haven’t worn down to the sensor, no need to replace it. Just be careful when you pull it out so you don’t break it.
9. Compress the piston (a special tool helps, see below.) The front ones just compress, the rears compress and turn. Inspect the rubber boot for damage (See this post for rebuilding the calipers).
10. Clean the calipers and the piston with a wire brush. Do not damage the dust boot.
11. Grease the piston leading edge; the caliper opposite the piston, and any place where the metal of the pad will come in contact with metal of the caliper with Plastilube to prevent squealing. (Top tip: If you’re going to track your car, grease the edges where the pads ride in the carrier, but do not grease the piston or backing plates. The grease increases heat transmission. Not greasing the backing plates does significantly increase brake noise, however.)
12. Put the new inside pad into the piston opening (be sure not to touch the surface of the pad with your fingers or with any Plastilube) and attach the sensor wire.
13. Put the new outside pad into the carrier.
14. Slide the carrier housing onto the rotor and re-tighten the two 7mm hex bolts, then replace the caps
15. Replace the wire retaining clip (insert top in slot and pull down with pliers into the lower hole.)
16. Replace the wheel and tighten the lug bolts (80 lbs. or so).
17. Repeat 1-16 for the other 3 wheels.
18. Lower the car off of the jack stands (remember that you reset the emergency brake so it won’t stop the car from rolling, use a block.)
19. Torque wheels to recommended torque setting. (My car is 87 lbs.)
20. Before you remove the chock block, start the car and step on the brakes repeatedly. They will go to the floor. Repeat and you should feel the car adjust and the brakes return to normal feel.
21. Check the emergency brake, it should now grip.
22. Check brake fluid level and top off if necessary.
23. Go for a short test drive. REMEMBER THAT YOU HAVE NEW BRAKE PADS. (See “Bed-In Procedure” below.)
24. Drink beer when you get home (optional).

Helpful hints:
1. It’s a messy job. Brake pads do not contain asbestos any longer, but you should still avoid breathing brake dust. Do not use compressed air. Consider wearing gloves.
2. You can get a piston compression tool for about $40. I used this one.
3. Consider following this procedure to bed-in your pads. (Not that I’m suggesting you violate any posted speed limits….)
4. If you brake wear sensor light was lit or you see that the sensor wire was damaged, you should replace the sensor wire.
5. Check your new pads for the slot for the sensor wire before you begin. If you do not use the wire, just tie it back with zip ties, but remember that you will need to check your pads for wear.
6. If you have topped off your brake fluid recently, remember to remove some before you press the pistons back into the calipers and place a rag around the reservoir to catch any spills if you push any out. Remember to top off when done.
7. And whatever you do, don’t be this guy….

What was the cost? I suppose it depends on how you add it up. The jack was a sunk cost and the jack stands were borrowed from my neighbor. The caliper tool was $40. Plastilube was $8. New pads $248. Turkey baster used to remove brake fluid was $2. New brake fluid was $17. Total $315. It took me about 3 hours to do the work. The first wheel took over an hour; the second about 45 minutes; the third about 30 minutes; and the fourth about 20 minutes. I think I could do four wheels now in under 90 minutes.