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Not “Old” but Historic

The wait is finally over. The F-22 turned 20 this month and can be registered as a “historic vehicle”. Since I purchased the car out of state, I would have had to go through the Maryland’s bureaucratic inspection goat-rope, aka the mechanics & bureaucrats work protection act. Don’t get me wrong, I’m all for safety, but this process makes no sense. I actually got the car inspected so I’d have a punch-list of things to correct, but found the inspection checklist was of little value for sorting out the car. For example, here’s a list of things my car failed:

  • No rear seat-belts (because there are no rear seats).
  • Hole in fender (where the antenna used to be).
  • Window tint uneven (on a rear passenger side window).
  • Window won’t go up due to bad switch. (I can understand why not going down would be a safety issue, but up?…)

But what didn’t the inspection turn up? A cracked and crumbling flex-joint in the drive-line; one of two transmission mounts was sheared as well as both engine mounts (meaning that the lone remaining transmission mount was all that was holding the engine & transmission to the chassis). And the speedometer didn’t work at the time.

So rather than fixing things just to get registered and then turning around in the Spring and ripping them out when autocross season starts up again, I thought I’d just wait for historic eligibility and skip the State inspection process since I have to get a technical inspection before I can go out on the track anyway.

So here’s where I’m starting the year:

  • Weight Reduction: Items removed so far — Cruise Control; AC Compressor, AC Condensor/Dryer, & Electric Fan; Mechanical Fan; fog lights; stereo, four speakers, & electric antenna; automatic locking system; trunk trim; rear seats and seat-belts.
  • New Items: Adding some weight back — seat-covers; new electric fan.
  • Repairs: Timing belt; fan belt; PS belt; valve cover gasket; coil, spark plugs & plug wires; water pump & thermostat; replaced all hoses; rear shocks; catalytic converter & muffler; instrument cluster; driver’s door lock; control arms, tie rods, control arm bushings; brakes, rotors, stainless steel brake lines.

I don’t have enough miles on the car yet to know anything about it’s reliability. My plan is to take it down to Dan Martin to get the Guibo fixed and get his assessment of what needs to be done to be track worthy by March. Depending on how that goes, I’ll start driving it more regularly and then prioritize what needs to be done to make it faster.

January Ice Ice Baby

Ice on the MINI

There are certain times of the year that I really miss living in California. This would be one of them….

Icy BMW

New Exhaust for the F-22 Stealth

New muffler

After several false starts, I finally managed to remove the old exhaust system on the 325is and install the new cat and muffler I’ve had since August. All of the DIY postings I’ve read on e30 exhausts have said the same three things: 1. Don’t try this without a lift; 2. This thing is long; and 3. It’s heavy. Right on all three. You can do it with the car on jack-stands, but be prepared for a lot of up and down work. It helps to have a couple of extra stands to support the exhaust; an extra jack to move it up into position; and a skateboard to help guide the exhaust under the car.

Bolted together, the old cat and muffler weighed in at 60 lbs. The new one came in slightly lighter at 55 lbs. The mufflers are essentially the same, but there have been some changes to the mid-pipe over the last 20 years. Catalytic converters are much more efficient and much smaller now. The old one also had an elaborate heat shield that rotted away.

rotten cat

The e30 exhaust system has basically three parts. A pair of very short exhaust headers (which I didn’t remove); a mid-pipe with the O2 sensor and cat; and a pipe and muffler section.

from the front

I’m not sure I understand the basic design principles involved though. The BMW 6 cylinder engine has two exhaust headers. The new pipe has an X-pipe at the O2 sensor, but then the two pipes continue to the cat. Before the cat, they go through a Y-pipe and enter a larger diaper tube into the cat. That larger pipe is perhaps 2 1/2 inches in diameter; the other pipes about 2 inches. Then there is another Y-pipe and back into two smaller diameter pipes to the muffler. Why not a Y-pipe at the O2 sensor, then a single pipe all the way back? That has to be a lighter design.

I guess I don’t have to understand it to appreciate it. The new system sounds great and seems to have a bit better throttle response, so the redesigned cat must be more free flowing. Also when I walk up to the car, I don’t have to look at the old crappy muffler any more. Yeah.

Goodbye crappy muffler

New MINI Suspension

New Camber Plates

I got the MINI back from Frederick Motorsports last night. I had Scott install the new adjustable Konis along with the replacement camber plates. I also had to have the front muffler replaced. It’s too soon to really offer an opinion on the new struts. My impression is that the ride home was smoother and less harsh, but that just may be because I want it to be so. I still have to figure out how I’m going to make the adjustments. Notice that the camber plate slot is smaller than the diameter of the Koni adjustment tool. Nothing is ever as easy as it seems.

Broken receiver

The Thud was definitely gone as the front left strut is again attached to the chassis and doesn’t ride up and down in the receiver as you can see in the photos of the old camber plates.

Rear shock

The rear shocks are also adjustable, but to make the adjustment, you have to drop the shock, make the adjustment and bolt it back in. I’ve heard most people just leave it on the middle setting and play with the adjustment in the front to achieve the desired balance. I’ll start there and see where it goes.

New Camber Plates

New IE Camber Plates

The replacement camber plates arrived from IE today. The adjustable Konis arrived earlier in the week. Hopefully I’ll have a chance to get them installed next week. When you compare the two photos, you can see how the urethane failed. I’ve been told they have improved the manufacturing process so these are not as likely to fail as the previous ones.