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Volvo Speed

Volvo

Yes, you are correct. That is my lovely wife tearing up the track in her Volvo wagon. Having agreed to go mostly to humor me, she ended up having a great time. It was fun to watch as she improved throughout the day. I wasn’t driving. I was helping out with the class for a change. It was good to see the old Volvo get an Italian tune-up and head full-throttle into a quick lane-change maneuver, but I’m getting ahead of myself.

Volvo

Once a year, the local BMW club hosts a Highway Safety School at Summit Point. This was the first year they’ve had it on the Shenandoah Circuit. The benefit of having it there on the longer course is that you can split the course in two and conduct two different run groups at the same time.

One group conducted slalom and lane change maneuvers down the pistol grip, range straight, and through the hook. At the same time, another group was on the rest of the course conducting various threshold braking maneuvers. A third group was at the skid-pad. Each exercise lasted 50 minutes and was repeated in the afternoon. That’s quite a bit of driving time for the money.

At the skid-pad they didn’t have the front-wheel drive students turn off traction control, so I don’t think she got much out of it. The Volvo traction control works very well. You cannot force much under-steer at all. When you do force it, the car hooks-up very quickly and goes into over-steer and a spin. Not really what you want to build confidence in a beginning student.

E46 at Speed

At the end of the day, she got to do some lapping with her instructor in his E46 M3. (He was driving.) They were supposed to be going at 80% so as not to frighten the students. I timed his laps with and without a student in the car. Not 80%…. Nonetheless, she had a great time.

On Friday I drove an instructor’s E36 M3 on the skid-pad for a good 20 minutes. I managed to go from pathetic to pretty average which is encouraging. I find most of my instincts are wrong when it comes to large-angle over-steer and rear-wheel drive, but I have to master it to graduate from the instructor program. Hopefully I’ll have the 325is done by the next class. I had driving someone else’s car — all I can think about is going off and bending a control arm or worse.

I feel like I’m braking more smoothly now and my laps are gaining in consistency, but I need to do some more work on my brakes if I take the MINI out again. I had EBC Red pads in the front and EBC stock pads in the rear. With the new rotors, that was a bad combo. The brakes started to fade after only a couple of runs. On Sunday, I switched to EBC Green pads in the rear and noticed a considerable improvement, but I think I’m still overheating the pads. It didn’t help that the ambient temp as almost 100 degrees.

MINI

Since I’m heading back to Shenandoah in the Fall, here’s a turn-by-turn description (the CCA doesn’t run the pit straight, they take the cut-off before the pits and head into the pistol grip.

Turn 1: Coming out of the pits, head toward the bucket and about where the apron is on the outside of the track, allow the car to go just a bit past mid-track, lift, and head back to the apex. Full power at the apex and track out, but be aware that the drop off is high at the end of the track out so be a bit conservative with power.

Turns 2-5: This is a start of a triple apex 3-5. Straight line 2 going from the outside to the inside, braking hard in a straight-line, and hit the apex of turn 3. Trail-brake to keep the car tight to the apex of 4. Hold the arc and let the car swing out to mid-track and control track position with the throttle. This will point the car in a straight line from 5 to 6. The apex at 5 is blind.

Turns 6-8: In this configuration, 6-8 forms a chicane. If turn 7 is in use, stay off of the curb in 6. If you’re going straight from 6 into 8, it’s ok to hit a bit of the curb in 6. It won’t unsettle the car and it allows for a better line from 5 and setting you up for the braking zone for turn 8.

Turn 8: If you get 5-6 right, you’ll have to brake a bit harder and sooner to get the car to turn in to turn 8. Normally, I brake hard, and trail brake just to get the car to turn in to turn 8, then manage position with the throttle. I don’t have that much power anyway so I don’t seem to be able to use all of the track-out.

Turn 9: Turn 9 is taken flat out. Position the car so that as you crest the hill you are to the extreme left of the track. As you go over the top and un-weight the car, give the car a quick turn to the left. This is blind, but it will position you for a straight line to the entry to the Carrousel.

Turn 10: The Carrousel. If you enter from the left, it’s a bit of carrier landing. To far to the right and the car will hop under hard braking. Catch the V with the right wheels and drop slightly to the left for the best transition. Make sure to downshift and unload the clutch well before the hardest braking to maintain stability. Listen to the tires in the turn and adjust power. It will take a lot more power than you will be comfortable with, but try to maintain speed.

Turns 11-12: This is a quick right under hard acceleration. Use left-foot braking to weight the front end to turn back for turn 12. Accelerate again over the top of the hill. Go deep into 13.

Turn 13: Have to be patient with 13. Going deeper and turning sooner will allow you to get on the power sooner and enter 14 at higher speed. Be patient to get the car to come back to the apex before hitting the power or you’ll blow the set-up for turn 14.

Turn 14: Late apex; steady power; track out; shift into 4th; get the car headed to the apex before full power, then power through 15.

Turn 15: Full power sweeper; use all of the track, but come back to mid track down the straight. There’s lots of dirt on the right of the track after the dip; and the track is very rough to the left in the dip. Set up for turn 16 from mid-right on the track.

Turn 16: Go deep; brake hard early; trail brake to get the car to rotate; late apex; full power and track out. Be careful with the trail-braking as the surface is rough.

Turns 17-18: Set up for 17 from the outside, head with left wheels to the rough patch; hold a steady arch; hit the curb on the right for apex for 17; let it drift to the apron on the left and come back to the curb on the right for the apex to 18. Power up the hill; track to the right; lift and get the car turned in for turn 1.

Turn 18

Jefferson Circuit HPDE Summit Point 5.30.08

My driving season is split into two parts: there’s the first half that starts once the snow melts and ends when summer swimming starts. The second half picks up after summer swimming and ends around Thanksgiving. This past weekend with the NCCBMWCCA at Summit Point marked the end of the first half. And what a great way to end it. The video shows about a lap and a quarter in the counter-clockwise direction. (The camera mount is too low and it’s a bit overexposed, but it is good for recording corner entry and exit speeds.) It starts mid corner in Turn 7 and ends just after the start finish line a lap later.

Since I started in the Instructor Academy in March, I’ve been taking a day of vacation on Friday and making it a three day weekend at the track. The Friday sessions are great because you effectively double your track time and you get as much time on the skid pad as you normally get in a year of driving events.

I like driving on the Jeff. It’s a very short track and laps tick off rapidly at around 1:04 a lap (counter-clockwise, not that it’s officially timed either way….). You can pick one or two corners and really concentrate on getting them right. Before you know it, you right back at it again.

Here’s what I need to remember for next time. Counter-clockwise:

  • Exit the pits, stay off-line to the right, enter turn 1 on the inside and rejoin the line. It’s good practice for when you’re tired and you don’t check that someone is storming down the straight.
  • Left-foot brake from turn 2 to through turn 5. Tap the brakes between 2 and 3, try to accelerate in a straight line, but stay to the inside of 3. Don’t swing to the right like the RWD cars. Let the car drift to track center on the exit but don’t go too far out.
  • Come in for turn 4, but don’t force the car to the left. Speed is more important than clipping the apex. Don’t get on the apron for the entry to turn 5, there’s a dip and it upsets the car.
  • The turn-in to turn 5 is faster than you think. Tap the brakes to begin the turn, don’t bleed off too much, and get on the gas early. Track out but watch the bump on the apron at the edge.
  • Stay middle-right on the set up to turn six and carry more speed in to seven than you think at first. You want enough speed so that you don’t have to come off the brakes to make turn in to turn 7.
  • Go deeper into turn 7 and trail-brake to get the car to start to rotate. Get on the gas as soon as you’re pointed at the apex. Your best chance to pass is coming out of turn 4 and turn 7. Stay to the left, check gauges and relax. Rinse and repeat.

Clockwise:

  • Exiting the pits, stay off-line through turn 7 until you’re sure no one is closing rapidly on you. Turn six is a throw-away in this direction.
  • Go deep into turn 5. Use all of the road to the left. Trail-brake when comfortable with speed. Since you’ll be heading up hill out of 5, you can carry more speed than you think. Look through the apex to track-out. Stay off of the apron.
  • Tap the brakes to settle the car to turn-in to turn 4. Stay further to the left on turn in and try to straight line the braking zone and make it parallel to the dirt patch at the start of the curb.
  • Trail-brake to rotate into turn 3. The braking is hard-medium-hard. Try to straighten out to set up entry into turn 2.
  • Straight-line turn 2 as much as possible but don’t ride the curbs. Don’t go all the way to the right to set up for turn-in to turn 1.
  • In this direction, turn 1 takes patience, especially in the wet. There isn’t much grip in the dry and you have to be patient. Get the car to turn, get to the apex then get on the power. Turn in too early or power on too early and you’ll have to lift on exit. Your best chance to pass is coming out of 1. Pass on the left.
  • Turn 7 is a double-apex with no grip in the middle. There is good grip at the turn-in and about 3/4 of the way through. Hit the first apex, drift out to the middle but hold a steady arc, and come back in to the second apex and that sets you up for turn six. Get the arc right and you’re on full throttle as soon as you’ve made it through the slippery part mid turn. There will be puddles at the second apex in 7 and at the apex in 5 when it rains. Turn 5 has the most grip in the wet. Don’t use it to judge the rest of the track.

Some notes on car set-up:

  • I ran F39/R36 lbs cold pressure. This got me 41/38 hot and even temps across all four tires. The outside tires take much more of a beating on this track, but the fact that you can change direction and run both ways really helps with tire wear.
  • Tire temps were much closer front to rear than in the past. I take that as a sign that I’m working the rear tires harder and getting the car to rotate more. Some of that is probably due to the increase in front downforce from the splitter. Some (hopefully) from better driving and more trail-braking.
  • By effectively doubling my track miles and the increase in speed with the move up to A group, I’m going through a set of brake pads in the weekend. Rotor temps were as high as 650 degrees in the front. I’ve opened up the front to try to get more air in to the wheel well, but I’m going to need to go to a higher temp pad next time. I didn’t notice a lot of fade, but I used 80% of the pad in three days. The once green pad plates look like they’ve been sitting in the gas grill for a while.
  • I am going to have to get a RWD car if I ever want to graduate from the skid-pad though. There’s just no way to sustain oversteer as long as they require for the program.

NCC BMW CCA HPDE Summit Point 03.18.08

Mud Cooper S

The new driving season got off to a very good start this past weekend. I participated in the Spring driver’s school with the NCC Chapter BMW CCA at Summit Point, WV. It was my first time in the fastest run group (Group A) and first weekend in the instructor training program. By the end of the weekend, I was holding my own in the run group, but it was a big step up in the beginning.

Since they repaved the main circuit last Fall, it’s a fundamentally different road course — tons of grip and much smoother, but devoid of many visual cues to help with turn-in points and brake markers. They also paved over most of the aprons so there’s very little warning before you run out of road. For me lap times were down almost 10 seconds. About half of that is due to the paving along. Hopefully some of the rest is due to improvements in driving.

Summit Point

Here’s what I need to remember next time I go back so (hopefully) I can pick up where I left off:

  • Main Straight. Relax. Check gauges. Remember to tap brakes during the first lap out of the pits. Stay to the right after pit out; left when at speed. Don’t get too close to the left edge due to strong cross winds. Watch for deer. Shift into 5th before the pit out. Top Speed about 120 mph right before the braking zone.
  • Turn 1. Brake at about 200 foot mark. Corner entry speed is about 50 mph. Go deep and turn past 90 degrees by the apex. Apex is very late. Look for seam in pavement past the red and white apron. Let the car unwind into turn 2. Don’t think of turns 1 & 2 being a 180 degree turn. It’s more like a 130 degree turn followed by a 50 degree turn.
  • Turn 2. Let the car drift toward the dirt past the exit road. Shift into 4th. Line up toward the flagging station at turn 3. Stay to the right of the straight after the turn. Stay on the gas until reaching the braking point for turn 3.
  • Turn 3. Fast lefthander. Turn in point is between the two access roads. Look through the apex and turn in when it lines up with the exit point which is in the right kink before the gravel trap. Steady gas through the apex. 70-75 mph in the corner.
  • Turn 4. Act of faith. Crest the hill leading into turn 4 around 85 mph. Don’t tap the brakes. May have to lift to get the car pointing toward the apex. Steady gas through the apex. Gas up to braking point, then hard on the brakes. Downshift into 3rd. Trail brake if needed to get tight into turn 5. There’s more grip than you think after turn 4.
  • Turn 5. Tight apex. Get left front wheel into the slot between new and old pavement. Let car push to the outside after the apex under steady gas. Then hard on the gas and brake hard in a straight line before turn 6.
  • Turn 6. Tight apex and let car drift all the way to the other side of the track. Steady gas. Point car toward the silo.Turn 6
  • Turn 7. May have to lift to get the car tucked into the apex, but have to get the right line or else will blow 8 and 9. Steady gas. Shift into 4th as the car transitions right to left. Steady tire noise.
  • Turn 8. Watch for standing water on the left. Steady gas. Set-up for 9. Smooth transition.
  • Turn 9. Watch for mud on the inside. Steady gas. Let the car drift out, but in the damp don’t drift too far to the left. The left is off-camber and will throw you off track if you lift. Line up to cross under the bridge on the right third of the road. Steady gas to the top of the hill, will be on the rev limiter in 4th gear, but don’t shift. Top speed 100 mph.
  • Turn 10. Watch for water at the braking zone and turn-in. Light on the brakes in the dry. Slow car to 70 for the turn-in. Look for scallop in paving on the left, that’s the turn in point. Full gas through the apex and stay on it. Let the car drift out to the exit and stay on full gas to the braking point for turn 1.
  • Rinse & repeat.

NCC HPDE 10.20.07

The National Capital Chapter held their last Driver’s School this past weekend at the Jefferson Circuit at Summit Point. The Jefferson is one of my favorite courses — very MINI friendly. The weather was beautiful, and unlike last November, sunny and warm. The GeorgeCo MINI ran like a top. (Watch me chase the M5 in the video above.)

No major changes to the car from the last track day. The suspension has settled a bit, so I now have more negative camber up front which helped with tire wear. I replaced my stock hood scoop with the M7 Extreme Hood Scoop which may have helped with intercooler temps, but it wasn’t that hot to begin with. The Falken RT-615s continue to wear evenly and remain predicable through multiple sessions, never exceeding about 125 degrees in the front and 98 in the rear.

Because of the suspension work and sticky tires, we’ve been having trouble making the car misbehave on the skidpad. For my second session, we tried something different. To get the car into oversteer, I lowered the fronts to street pressure and over-inflated the rears by about 10 pounds. With a little application of the emergency brake, the tail came out quite easily. But with all front-wheel drive, it is hard to sustain oversteer for any distance. You can see at the end of this clip that I managed to get the car almost completely sideways and still recovered.

Ice Driving School

This time last week, I was outside in my t-shirt and shorts starting to get ready for the first CCA driver’s school of the year at Summit Point. This year, the first school was to be on the main circuit, usually everyone’s favorite event. In February as the snow was blowing, we were all a bit concerned by having the event so early in the year, but as March started to warm up, those fears seemed unfounded. And then it started to snow again. I remember heading out the unplowed backroads from Charlestown to Summit Point thinking, “what am I doing?…” The idea of traving at speed on a track was far fom my mind as I concentrated on staying on the road.

When we arrived, the track was plowed, but covered in places by thick sheets of black ice. We proceeded with classroom work and opened the skid-pad. By 11 it was time for quick reconnaissance laps of the track which proved to have warmed fairly quickly. There was some standing water, some bits of ice, and places where the snow was still blowing across the track, but it was doable.

Since the track was covered with snow and ice and I had just changed my suspension, I thought it best to keep with my all-season tires for the first day. I figured that way, I wouldn’t get into trouble since I wouldn’t have much traction to start with. It turned out to be a good strategy as the snow melted and the track became quite wet in spots. By Sunday, the weather had warmed to the 40’s and the snow retreated quite rapidly. The track was still wet in spots, but it was sunny most of the day so the shaved track tires came out and my pace picked up considerably. In all, my pace was still off of the lap times from last Fall, but then again, we aren’t keeping track. Here’s the last session Sunday:

sundaylastsession

The new suspension worked out great. The car is very stable at speed, neutral in the corners, and turns like a cat on carpet. The cold, dense air really gave a boost to the super-charger and I found myself hanging with much higher horsepower cars that I couldn’t keep up with in the summer.