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Porsche Steering Grinder Fix & New H&R Springs
The steering on the 996 has been a bit creaky lately. Noticeable when backing up or parking, there was a distinct grinding noise coming from the front right strut. Having experienced that before in the MINI, I suspected it would be a strut bearing and was right. Getting it off to replace proved to be a pain though.
The part that needed to be replaced is shown as #11 in this diagram. It sits between the strut mount on the top and the spring below. Between the bearing and the spring is a plate (#4) and the rubber spacer (#5). The interesting thing about this design is that you can fine-tune the ride height by using a thicker or thinner (in my case) rubber spacer. The way the design works, the piston of the strut is held in place by the retaining nut, and the strut body and spring rotate underneath it. When I took it apart, the plate (#4) was missing and the bearing was falling apart — hence the groaning whenever it spun.
Here’s a helpful hint to see if something might be wrong. When you take the strut apart and the bearing comes out as three pieces. Something’s wrong. It’s supposed to be one sealed unit. The good news is that it isn’t terribly expensive (part number 996-343-515) and is usually $35-$45 each. There must be a Porsche Motorsports part that’s more robust….
Since I had to tear down both front struts, I decided to go ahead and swap out the springs now rather than come back and do it in the Spring as originally planned. The new springs are H&R Sport Springs so not a huge change from the ROW M030 Sport Springs that were already there. They offer a slight drop of about a quarter inch over ROW M030 and an inch and a half over stock (US). Mostly I wanted to see if I could drop the front slightly to better match the rear and I think it worked. [ROW M030 on top; H&R Sport on the bottom]
Stuck Strut Mount
There are few things in life that can’t be fixed with either duct tape, zip-ties, or WD-40. Add angle grinder to that list. I had to replace a strut bearing on the Porsche. Unlike the MINI where the bearing is in the mount, on the 996 the bearing sits between the mount and the top of the spring. It’s not a hard part to remove and replace. Break the nut on top of the strut shaft loose (but do not remove) before you put the car on jack-stands. Remove the wheel. Disconnect the brake caliper and the connections that hold the brake line and ABS sensor wires to the strut. Disconnect the drop-link to the swaybar (which is the pinch-bolt in the hub carrier.) Remove the three nuts holding the mount and you should be able to rotate the strut through the fender and pull it out of the hub. (If you don’t get enough room, try loosening but not removing the bolt for the lower control arm to get more play.) With the strut free, use spring compressors to remove pressure on the mount, remove the top nut, and everything pulls apart. Or so that’s how it’s supposed to work.
I couldn’t get it to move. I tried twisting it, heating it, using penetrating oil, releasing the spring, and pounding on it. Nothing made it move. I let it soak in PB Blaster overnight and still noting. If I had a hydraulic press, I would have tried putting in it the press and compressing the strut which would have used the spring to try to press it off, but since I don’t have one, I tried my next option: power drill.
I drilled around the rubber bushing in the mount and eventually got the strut free of the mount. Next I needed a way to get under it. I thought it might still spin off or at least move enough to get something under it to 
pry, so I got out the old reliable angle grinder and cut down two sides. I could then get a wrench on it and finally got it to move enough that I could get a ball-joint fork under it.
With the fork under it, I could apply upward pressure with the fork as I spun it with the wrench and it eventually came free. In the end it was just 
corrosion that held it on. I was worried the threads may have been damaged, but they cleaned up fairly easily. Now I just have 
to put everything back together (and do the other side.)
Porsche 996 HVAC Control Module Replacement
If your HVAC controls are starting to wear or the screens are starting to go bad (as were mine), the replacement is a simple DIY repair with only minimal tools and skills. With the car powered off — I suppose you should actually disconnect the battery — begin by removing the trim around the HVAC control unit. Carefully pry it free using a plastic pry tool. My car has the HVAC controls in the lower position. It may be located instead in the position below the radio, but the process is essentially the same. Once the trim is removed, remove the screws on either side. If in the lower position, remove the batwings. There is a lower tab that sits behind the cross member that’s at the top of the batwings that you have to press up as you pull out the control unit. The wire harness may be very short, so spin the unit in the opening and pinch each of the connectors to release them. Note the order and color of the connectors for when it’s time to reconnect them. Connect the new control unit to the connectors. If unsure of the condition of the new control unit, reconnect the battery and turn the ignition key to the accessory position. Check functions. If all is OK, then press the control unit into position, reinstall screws, reposition batwings, and replace trim. It should take you 10-15 minutes at most.
Replace Instrument Cluster Lamp in Porsche 996
At some point, a light bulb is going to burn out on your 996 instrument cluster. My money is on one of the three bulbs that back-light the mileage on the left, speed in the middle, or oil level/time on the right. In my case, it was the left one. The bulb you want is Porsche part number 999-631-303-90-M97 [beige base], and amazingly, they only cost about $1.25 each so pick up some spares while you’re at it. (If you want one of the warning indicator bulbs, they’re part number 999-631-302-90-M97 [black base] and also the same price.) The procedure to replace the bulb will take about 20 minutes. In addition to the appropriate bulb(s), you will need a Torx T20 driver and pry tools, as well as a 10mm wrench to disconnect the battery. And a flashlight helps too. Below are the steps I followed — use at your own risk. The procedure is also covered in the Bentley manual.
- Disconnect your battery. Better safe than sorry. Make sure you have whatever radio codes you need before you do however.
- Use your pry tool to carefully remove the round plastic microphone cover on the left side of the instrument cluster.
- Carefully remove the Torx T20 bolt. The bolt is recessed so be careful not to drop it off of the driver once you remove it.
- Push the emergency flasher button so it is in the up position. Carefully remove it using your fingers if you can, pry tools if you cannot. The center button will pop out.
- Remove the plastic surround from the emergency flasher button with pry tools. Be careful not to mar the dash.
- Now comes the hardest part of the entire procedure, remove the flasher switch by pinching either side. You may be able to grab it with your fingers, but more likely will have to pry from both sides at the same time.
- Carefully remove the Torx T20 bolt from the flasher switch opening.
- With the two Torx Bolts removed, the entire cluster lifts straight up. Carefully work your finger tips to get leverage and pull up. It’s held in with several clips so you can give it a hearty pull.
- Rotate the cluster so it is face down on the steering wheel column.
- Looking down from outside of the car through the windshield, locate and release each of the three electrical connectors by pinching the catch and sliding the release.
- Slide the electrical connector for the emergency switch out of the bottom of the cluster.
- Lift the cluster free of the car for repairs.
- Locate and replace any burned out bulbs.
- Installation is the reverse of removal. Pause before pressing the cluster back into the dash to be sure everything is working.
Pothole Scorecard 2:0
For those of you keeping track of the score at home, the score is now New Jersey Potholes 2, Porsche Wheels 0. The Potholes seem confident they can run the score up to 4:0. All the Wheels can hope for is an early spring. Stay tuned. The wheels coach said they’re fighting back the best they can. They called up a rookie from the factory to replace the bent front rim while the rear went into surgery this past weekend and seems to be on the mend.
