Thanks to the break in weather, I was able to start the suspension work this past weekend. The photo above shows the difference in size between the stock rear spring and the Bavauto spring.

Shorter springs require shorter shocks. This photo shows a comparison of the Bilstein HD shock with the Sport Shock.

This photo shows the stock spring prior to removal. Changing springs and shocks on the rear is fairly simple.

1. With the car on jackstands, remove the wheels, and support the differential with a floor jack.
2. Lower the exhaust by disconnecting the two rear brackets and the rubber hangar. Support the exhaust in the lowered position.
3. Remove the bolt from the differential housing that mounts the differential to the subframe. Slowly lower the jack. This will take the pressure off of your axle shafts. You may have to disconnect your speedometer sensor if the wire is too short to drop.
4. Remove the nuts that hold the swaybar to the trailing arm. Use another jack to support the trailing arm and disconnect the shock at the base. Disconnect the shock from inside of the trunk, but don’t let it fall. Remove the shock.
5. Press down on the trailing arm. If your springs are really worn out, you may be able to remove them by hand. I didn’t have that luck so use a spring compressor to carefully remove them.
6. Replace spring pads and reinstall new spring. Jack up the trailing arm a bit to hold it in place.
7. Install the shock from inside the trunk. Now is a good time to replace the gasket under the shock mount. Think about adding reinforcing plates or a strut bar at the same time.
8. Reattach the lower shock bolt. Tighten all bolts to torque specifications.
9. Repeat for other side.
10. Raise the differential and reattach bolt. Torque to specification.
11. Attach swaybar bolts and wheels. Remember to torque the lugs.
12. Attach exhaust hangar and brackets.

The photo above shows the new springs installed. Notice the difference in height by the gap at the top.

I also added the strut bar. I even changed out the brake calipers while I had everything available.

This final picture shows everything put back together with the new RA1s and Konig wheels.

Compare that to the off-roader height from before the change.

The final change was the addition of a new lip spoiler. It’s actually not the right one for this car, but with the lowered ride height and shallower design, it has a better chance of remaining attached after multiple autocross cone-crunches. Notice the ride height in the front. That will come down when the front springs are changed out.