Stealth Springs into Spring
Thanks to the break in weather, I was able to start the suspension work this past weekend. The photo above shows the difference in size between the stock rear spring and the Bavauto spring.
Shorter springs require shorter shocks. This photo shows a comparison of the Bilstein HD shock with the Sport Shock.
This photo shows the stock spring prior to removal. Changing springs and shocks on the rear is fairly simple.
- With the car on jackstands, remove the wheels, and support the differential with a floor jack.
- Lower the exhaust by disconnecting the two rear brackets and the rubber hangar. Support the exhaust in the lowered position.
- Remove the bolt from the differential housing that mounts the differential to the subframe. Slowly lower the jack. This will take the pressure off of your axle shafts. You may have to disconnect your speedometer sensor if the wire is too short to drop.
- Remove the nuts that hold the swaybar to the trailing arm. Use another jack to support the trailing arm and disconnect the shock at the base. Disconnect the shock from inside of the trunk, but don’t let it fall. Remove the shock.
- Press down on the trailing arm. If your springs are really worn out, you may be able to remove them by hand. I didn’t have that luck so use a spring compressor to carefully remove them.
- Replace spring pads and reinstall new spring. Jack up the trailing arm a bit to hold it in place.
- Install the shock from inside the trunk. Now is a good time to replace the gasket under the shock mount. Think about adding reinforcing plates or a strut bar at the same time.
- Reattach the lower shock bolt. Tighten all bolts to torque specifications.
- Repeat for other side.
- Raise the differential and reattach bolt. Torque to specification.
- Attach swaybar bolts and wheels. Remember to torque the lugs.
- Attach exhaust hangar and brackets.
The photo above shows the new springs installed. Notice the difference in height by the gap at the top.
I also added the strut bar. I even changed out the brake calipers while I had everything available.
This final picture shows everything put back together with the new RA1s and Konig wheels.
Compare that to the off-roader height from before the change.
The final change was the addition of a new lip spoiler. It’s actually not the right one for this car, but with the lowered ride height and shallower design, it has a better chance of remaining attached after multiple autocross cone-crunches. Notice the ride height in the front. That will come down when the front springs are changed out.
Stealth Enters the Home Stretch
I had some time on my hands the other night, went out to the garage, and much to my surprise, there’s nothing left on my punch-list to do on the BMW. Sure there’s plenty left to do — just not much I can do myself. The new suspension components have started to arrive. Once the new brake calipers get here, I’ll throw on the rear springs and shocks and take it down to Dan Martin to install the front struts/springs; fix the leaky cam gear seal, and flush the brakes. The first CCA track weekend is in less than 3 weeks. I should be in a good position to base-line the car. I won’t do the full Spec E30 suspension right away. I’d rather get some seat-time and understand how the car handles with only minor changes before going with a full race set-up.
2009 Weather Control Experiment Successful
Well the February car washing weather control experiment was successful. Today school was canceled and E got her snow day. I decided to take the day off and go sledding as well.
Sticker Tires
Spring is in the air. With less than a month to go before the first track weekend, it’s time to stock up on parts and make repairs. Nothing says Spring like new tires.
For SCCA autocross in the MINI, I’ll be running Hankook Ventus Z214 R-comp tires. This is the medium compound (C50) which should last me the whole season. They’re on special at Frisbyracetire for only $85 each in size 205/50R16. Stacked up next to my old Azenis in size 215/45R16 they’re almost the same width. The tire diameter is about 23 1/2 inches — half an inch taller than the Azenis, but still a decent size for my gearing.
I’m making progress on the BMW as well. I just got it back from Frederick Motorsports. I had Scott replace the guibo, drive shaft center support bearing, service the differential and replace seals, new axle shafts, and take the slop out of the shifter. No more fork-in-the-spaghetti shifting. I also got a new clutch. Next up: suspension work and finally stopping that pesky oil leak from the camshaft gear seal.
Winter Break
It’s hard to get motivated to do anything related to my cars when it’s 15 degrees outside. If I’m lucky, I can keep the garage about 30 degrees above the ambient temperature, but when the best you can get is in the low 40’s, you don’t want to stay there long. Fortunately, we had a break in the cold today. With sunny skies and temperatures in the 60’s it was time to break out the hose and wash away the salt and grime. Much like the groundhog seeing his shower, the mid-February car wash means another six weeks of winter for sure. To hedge my bet, I put snow tires on the BMW.
It’s been a while since I’ve been able to make any progress with the appearance of the BMW. I started out this morning to see what a little polish and a random orbital polisher could do to the severely oxidized paint on the trunk lid. Here’s a photo of what it looked like last summer.
I started off with polish and made no progress. Then I tried rubbing compound; nada. Then a combination of wax and advanced polymer polish; nothing. Getting frustrated, I got out the sandpaper. First 400 then 1000 wet/dry. I couldn’t get anything that would take a polish, so I got out the spray bomb and painted the thing.
Once I put the snow tires on and backed the car up into the sun, I realized I am making progress. The look I’m shooting for is a satin finish because this is the Stealth Bimmer after all. I’ve painted the front back to include the doors and now the trunk lid. I also got the rear-end and rear valance. Now just the rear quarter panels and roof to go.
I’ve got about 6 weeks to go until the first track event. Now I just need some drive-line work; a new clutch; brakes and… Anyway, here’s the finished product of today’s work.
